If you play tournaments, sit back and go or normal multi-table.
tournaments of any kind, online or offline, you should be aware
what is your “X Factor” and what to do about it.

So what is this X Factor? It is a shortened name for your
stack relationship. OK, that really clears things up, doesn’t it?

Here is a simple equation to calculate your X factor:

X = STACK SIZE / STARTING JAR

where, STACKSIZE is your current stack size and INITIALPOT is the
pot size at the start of the hand, after all blinds and before
they are in the pot.

For example, let’s say the blinds are 100/200 with 25 before and
there are 8 players. That’s a total pot of 500 (100 + 200 + 200).

If your stack size is 5,000, then your X value is 10 (5,000 / 500).

If your stack size is 3000, X = 6, stack size 1000, X = 2, etc.

When calculating your X, just use estimates (don’t worry about the
fractional precision). For example, the 2800 stack size is “5 to 6”.

So why is this X factor important? Basically, X represents how many
We have “rounds” left against the blinds and before. Turns around
turns out to be a very useful rule of thumb for doing some
tournament decisions. Here is the general guide that X provides me:

X greater than 20

At this point, we are on the easy street, in excellent shape and we can hold on,
take some calculated risks, get aggressive when we have a good
hand, good position and good opportunity to bluff. We can afford to take
more chances, play a little looser when appropriate, mix up our game.

X from 15 to 20

At this point, we are in good shape, we can hope for better hands,
better bluffing opportunities and good cheat plays. However,
we should try to avoid playing more than 5X in any hand, to
stay above an X of 10 (and avoid putting ourselves at undue risk).

X from 8 to 14

At this point, we should adjust a few, protecting our stack
(and X), waiting for a good hand or bluff opportunity to present itself.

X less than 8

At this point, our stack size relative to the blinds is becoming critical.
When our X reaches a value of 5 to 7, it is time to switch to “push / fold”
mode (described below).

Therefore, we should constantly keep track of our X value and take the X
the value of our opponents in consideration while we follow our situation
in the game (to better predict opponents, as well as to guide our
own game).

The rules I present above are how I play, given my solidity
to a tight / aggressive style (feel free to experiment and propose
your own X Factor rules, but these will allow you to “enter the zone”).

Now when our X value falls below 8, I said to enter “push / fold”
Fashion. This is what I mean by an X of 7 and under and push / bend …

Push / Bend is where we do one of two things: All In or Bend. We go
all-in to get the other players out of these pots
giving them little chance of the pot and forcing them to fold or enter
a showdown with us.

When I think of Push / fold mode, I treat it as
aggressive heads up play as possible. That’s because if i do
they end up in a confrontation, it will probably be against another player
who has a strong enough starting hand to call with poor pot odds
anyway (watch out for weak players, they will call you at any time).

With an X of 5 to 7, I will play any hand with an Ace and
any pair of 5 or more.

In the lowest Xs, I’ll add all the pairs and two face cards. If I
don’t take a decent starting hand, then it’s an instant fold.

No limping, no calling, no halfway, or it’s all inclusive
or is it a fold (there is only one exception, which I will discuss
below).

Every time the blinds go up, I immediately look at my stack size
vs. the new pot size and find out where my new pile X = 10
size limit will be, and if the new blinds / before put me in
push / fold hazard mode.

For example, if the blinds go up and my new X Factor is 7 or less,
I quietly begin my switch to push / fold mode.

Push / fold is basically a super tight and super aggressive extreme mode
of operation. This strategy provides the best opportunity to obtain
return to the tournament using your remaining stack and the NL
Hold’em all-in move in your favor (as long as you choose your shots
adequately).

If your X value drops and you don’t go into push / fold mode,
ends up having the size of your stack eroded by the blinds and earlier for
the point that going all-in will change the behavior of your
opposition of having a “fold unless you have a great hand” to a
“Let’s pounce on them!” operating mode (probably too late to
you now).

By waiting too long to push / fold, you have lost your No Limit
power: you cannot harm or threaten anyone with an all-inclusive move
more … a very dangerous place to be in this game … as a
toothless shark !!

Of course, if you don’t get decent starting hands, on some
period, you’ll be forced to take your best shot anyway (something
that came no matter what).

I recommend taking that photo while you still have a 4 to 5 X
and can inflict some damage, and preferably when you are later
position (distributor button or cut). This will give you the
best shot to steal the blinds.

The only exception to entering push / fold mode with an X of 7 is
if I’m in the bubble (almost in the money), and other players are
in push / fold mode. Riding things one or two turns (until
an X of 5, ideally), has a higher probability of entering
the money by letting the other players with short chips get knocked down
first (since they will probably also be in push / fold mode).

If you don’t see that kind of opportunity, you will probably have to
hit your best shot when the next big blind comes around, and see if
you can reconstitute your position.

Of course, the X Factor is just one of the many game factors that
should be taken into consideration, but provides an overview
framework that will help you better manage your tournament play.

I hope this information is useful to you in your next tournament.
meeting.

Until next time, may the power of poker be with you!