As holistic animal health becomes more commonplace for our pets, there are a growing number of “health clubs” for canines.

If you’ve ever had a pet, and dogs in particular, you know they need exercise. This is especially true if your canine companion is older or has health problems like arthritis. I remember my father-in-law’s golden retriever, Tyler. He was a great pet and companion for my in-laws in their later years. But like many goldens, Tyler suffered from arthritis as he aged. Had he had a pool available, it probably would have made it easier or more comfortable for him in recent years.

One of the best forms of exercise for humans is swimming. Excellent for the cardiovascular system. Very low if there is no impact: the water provides great buoyancy and almost weightlessness. Cooler water helps lower body temperature, which makes the body work harder to stay warm. And if it’s good for you and me, it will be great for your pet.

Let’s face it, most dogs LOVE being in the water. They will just jump and swim. It is almost natural for them. This is especially true for larger breeds of Shepherds, Retrievers, certain Bloodhounds, Rottweilers, etc.

But with dogs in pools, the concern arises of treating them properly. First, we have to remember that each dog puts additional “stress” or strain on the pool treatment system. It is estimated that one canine in a pool can equal 10 to 50 humans (as stated in The Orange Country Register, Spa and Pool Education Committee for Education, Santa Ana, CA, April 16, 1997). Obviously, the size of the dog, the type of coat or hair, the amount of hair or hair will come into play in this proportion.

When treating a pool we must take that proportion into account. The average pool may only have 2-5 people a day using it, but add just one dog, and you’ve shot that usage rate through the roof! Chlorine, bromine, or other disinfectants need to be adjusted properly to keep up with the extra load of bathers. Excess hair and hair in the pool (whether floating, on the bottom, or sitting in the skimmer baskets) will cause a demand for chlorine (resulting in excessive use of chlorine). Higher levels of chlorine or bromine can dry out your pet’s skin.

With all of this excess organic and natural waste going into the pool, biofilms (films of living organic material on the floors, walls, and all surfaces of the pool) are more easily formed throughout the pool and its filtration system. As biofilms spread, the demand for chlorine will worsen considerably. The person who maintains the dog pool will be more frustrated by not being able to maintain the proper levels of chemicals.

You always want to maintain a chlorine level of 1.0 to 3.0 ppm, free available chlorine (FAC) for proper disinfection. And don’t forget the pH! Make sure to maintain a proper pH level of 7.4 to 7.6.

As with people, it may be worth rinsing or bathing your dog before he enters the pool, if for no other reason than to remove some of the initial fur or hair that would otherwise go into the pool. After swimming, bathe your pet to remove excess chlorine or bromine from their bodies.

Pools specialized in canine therapy should take the following into account:

• Maintain a good level of chlorine, bromine, or sanitizer. 1.0 – 3.0 ppm FAC (Free Available Chlorine)
• Maintain a proper pH level. 7.4 – 7.6
• Filter systems must operate a minimum of 12 hours a day, 7 days a week.
• Skimmer baskets should be equipped with “skimmer socks” to help remove excess hair or hair and prevent clogging of the pump.
• The pool should be skimmed and vacuumed at least once a day to remove as much hair and hair from the pool as possible. Using a good automatic pool cleaner with a separate filtration system is a great time saving idea.
• The pool should be flushed more frequently, possibly twice a week, to dissolve and reduce chloramine buildup and eventual chlorine demand.
• Consider using a good quality enzyme product that will naturally eat or consume the excess organic waste in the pool water.
• Also, use products like AquaFinesse Pool Water Care Tablets to continually remove biofilms from pool surfaces.
• Depending on the size of the pool and the number of dog bathers, it may be necessary to drain and refill the pool at least once a year. Watch for Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) to be sure.
• When the TDS levels are approximately 1200 to 1500 ppm higher than the initial fill, the pool should be at least partially drained and filled with fresh (uncontaminated) water to dilute the TDS to a more normal level.

Are there ways to reduce the use of chlorine? Absolutely. Enzyme and biofilm removal products will do just that: they will break down, remove and consume the biofilms. In addition, you will also notice a better natural water balance.

As in a “human” pool, you always want the most crystalline and sparkling water possible, which is also well balanced, treated and maintained. This is not only good for the pool, it is great for the dog and its owner.