Tomatoes are probably the most thought of crop for the hobby gardener.
Previously considered a purely greenhouse crop, it is now successfully grown outdoors and in conservatories with excellent results.

You may very well get the best results in a properly prepared and heated greenhouse, but with the introduction of much more hardy species over the years, there’s no reason why anyone can’t grow enough to feed themselves already. your family during harvest season by following a few simple rules.

F1 hybrid varieties

Cherry.

My personal favorite is the Cherry tomato or (Cherry Belle). These, unsurprisingly, are a much smaller variety but produce very heavy yields with a flavor that I believe is far superior to all the other types. It’s also good to start with, as it’s also very resistant to many of the diseases that affect some types.

Shirley.
Another good crop that is resistant to leaf mold and buck, it can also handle cold nights in the greenhouse if you forget to turn on the heater! Another heavy harvester.

Glass.

Similar in size to the cherry tomato, it is grown in hanging baskets or outdoor pots.

ordinary varieties

Alice Craig.

Medium sized tomatoes that have excellent flavor and will produce early fruit. These can be grown outdoors or under glass.

Moneymaker.

A very popular tomato, again bearing medium sized fruit. This will provide a very bountiful harvest, but the downside is the rather bland taste.

Money cross.

Very similar to Moneymaker, although it has superior resistance to leaf blight and also produces an early crop.

Alicante.

Another variety that can grow both outdoors and under glass. Similar to the money maker, resistant to the dollar and a great harvester that produces its harvest early.

other varieties

Yellow perfection.

Bright yellow fruits that do well outdoors and under glass. Another great vintage with an excellent sweet taste.

Obviously we could cover other types, but there should be something from the list above for you to try!

soil requirements

Tomatoes can be planted in small 3-4″ peat poles that are filled with an all-purpose seed compost and are widely available at garden centers. Seeds need a germination temperature of around 60-65°F This temperature, if possible, should be kept stable throughout the life of the plant and should not be allowed to fall below 50°F if possible.

Sowing and Transplantation

Cover the seeds with about 1/4″ (6mm) of fine compost and keep the soil moist but not wet. In about 7 to 14 days you should see sprouts appear. If you have placed several seeds in each pot, you will be able to remove the weaker seedlings and leave the strong ones in. When they reach 5″-8″ tall, they will need to be transplanted into grow bags, large pots (usually about 9″ in diameter), or to a garden edge. I personally have never tried them in a border and always plant them in pots in the greenhouse. If you have any advice let me know!

If you have used peat pots, I advise you to carefully remove the bottom layer of the peat pot (being careful not to damage the fine roots) before planting. This is because I have found in previous years when removing the plant at the end of the season, the bottom of the peat pot has remained intact, preventing the root from developing as it should.

plant care

The main stem of the plant should be supported by a cane or tied around a piece of string that extends from the top of the pot, to about 7 feet tall. If using the cane method, be sure not to tie too tightly as the stem will swell as it grows and will be cut by the tie.
Water regularly to ensure the soil stays moist but not too wet. Mornings are usually a good time to do this, but you may need to water more than once a day in hot weather. During warm periods in the greenhouse you will need to “Damping down”, this will require you to mist the plants, glass and floor daily. Mist the plants and occasionally tap them lightly in the morning to help pollination.

Once the plant reaches about 4 feet tall, remove the (now yellow) leaves at the bottom of the plant with a sharp knife. The plant will also start producing side shoots between the stem and leaf junction, these can be pinched or cut when they are no more than 1″ long. These shoots should be removed as they will consume the resources needed to feed the plant. existing.

When the plant reaches the top of the greenhouse (about 7 feet), cut the top of the plant into three leaves after the last bunch, this will ensure the remaining fruits set.
As the fruits begin to swell, feed with a tomato fertilizer. Since every manufacturer is different, follow the instructions on the bottle. I always use tomato feed every other day.

Picking or reaping

The lower bunches will ripen first, so pick them when they are nearly ripe (orange-red). This is done by breaking the tomato at the knuckle (just above the calyx).

By picking tomatoes just before they are ripe, you will allow the plant to focus its efforts on the remaining fruit. Picked tomatoes that are not quite ripe are best placed on a windowsill and will be ready in a few days.

Remember to keep removing the new shoots between the leaf joints when you are picking your fruit, as they will start to appear more frequently now that you are giving them a liquid food.