A layout sketch is the process of loosely outlining the key elements of an image on paper (or canvas). The goal should be to get each component to the correct size and position before proceeding. However, this early stage is where most amateur art goes wrong.

In a portrait, for example, the design sketch would simply ensure that the contours of the eyes (nose, mouth, etc.) are the correct shape, correct size, precise alignment, and the correct distance from each other. The design sketch doesn’t require any further details, but if you get it wrong, your artwork will be doomed, no matter how good your painting or drawing technique is.

It is possible, with a lot of practice and care, to complete a design sketch by eye, but is this how professional artists work? No, they do not do it! Time is money, and professional artists use techniques and tools to quickly complete precise design work.

These are the most common tools and techniques for working from a photograph.

Measurement

The simplest tool is the use of a pencil as a ruler and protractor. For example, when drawing a face, the pencil can be used to measure the relative size of an eye, the distance between the earlobe and the corner of the eye, or the angle of the nose. This works best when copying from a large photo and playing back an image of the same size.

The technique is simple: place the pencil on top of the photograph. Place the tip of the pencil where you want to measure from and hold the other end of the pencil at the exact point you want to measure. Without changing your grip, move the pencil toward the paper and make a mark on the paper at the tip and point of your grip.

Similarly, angles can be duplicated by placing the pencil over the photograph, say a roof line in a landscape, and carefully moving the pencil over the paper while maintaining that angle. An easier method is to place your reference photo on top of your paper, so that the pencil can roll from one surface to another without significantly altering its angle.

A slightly easier method is to use a ruler and take absolute measurements. If you need to rescale an image, using a ruler is preferable. For example, when you scale up to twice the size, you simply double the size (etc.). But, this technique has become obsolete.

Alternatively, it is possible to purchase dividers that achieve the same measurement effect. Some even have a limited rescaling feature.

Most people now have access to a PC with peripherals, so it’s easier to scan and reprint a photo at the same size you want to draw or paint, instead of rescaling it on the fly.

Using a pencil (or anything else) as a ruler is best used to check the dimensions and angles of minor details.

grid method

Another slightly outdated but effective method of layout is the grid. Briefly, you need to draw a grid over the reference image and a grid on your paper. The layout is achieved by separately copying the content of each grid box. In effect, your design will comprise many tiny drawings that will fit together to form a whole.

Using a grid limits the possibility of error, and the smaller the grid boxes, the more accurate the copy will be. If your grid is, say, 1cm squares, then your layout lines can never be inaccurate by more than 1cm (unless your grid is inaccurate or you draw something on the wrong square), but chances are your sketch is almost perfect to the millimeter. .

You can use different sized grids for reference photography and artwork. This way, scaling back (if necessary) is easy. For example, to double the size of your drawing, use a 1 cm grid on the photo and a 2 cm grid on the drawing paper. However, for the system to work, both sides must have the same number of grid spaces.

The racks require a lot of effort to use. The other drawback is that the reference photograph has to be expendable (you have to be able to draw lines all over it) and you have to remove the grid lines on your art paper when you’re done designing. Grids are good for oil paints as they can be painted over.

tracing paper

Many professional artists use tracing paper. It is a very precise way of completing a design. I recently read an instructive article on using tracing paper, posted on a major UK artist site. My recommended method of use is very different.

The first thing is to place the tracing paper on the image to be copied, and mark its position. This is so that you can place the tracing paper over the image over and over again, and always in exactly the same place.

Although tracing paper is highly transparent, it can be difficult to see detail in darker shades. The best way to use it is with a backlight; Make your tracing against a window pane (during the day!), rather than on a desk or table.

Carefully draw around the key elements with a sharp pencil (step 1). Invert the tracing paper and draw precisely over the pencil lines, to create a mirror image on the back (step 2). Use a soft, sharp pencil for this, and remember that an outline will transfer onto whatever your tracing paper is resting on (so use some scrap paper). Now place the tracing paper right side up on your art paper. Mark its position, so you can reposition it in exactly the same place if you need to. Draw over your pencil lines again to transfer the image (step 3). At no time should you scribble. Use minimal pressure on your pencil marks; the goal is to transfer a light (temporary) pencil mark, not to etch an outline into your art paper.

It takes some time, but you should end up with faint but very precise design lines. Obviously, you can’t rescale an image using tracing paper. Tracing paper works best on a smooth surface. You may have a hard time getting a transfer on watercolor paper and jagged pastel papers, so try to transfer as little detail as you need for a design.

When working with darker papers, a white pencil in step 2 works best. A white pencil also tends to work best on pastel-colored papers.

tracing paper

Tracedown paper is a form of carbon paper for artists. I’ve never used it personally, but it works like tracing paper with steps 1 and 3 done simultaneously, and step 2 skipped entirely. Briefly, place the transfer paper on top of your art paper, the photograph on top, and draw around the key elements directly on top of the photo. The pressure of your pencil makes a faint line on your art paper.

As with tracing paper, it’s impossible to re-scale, and I imagine the reference photo gets a little roughed up.

projectors

There are a number of specialized projectors that can be purchased. In short, this tool projects an image onto art paper and allows you to draw design lines directly on the paper (or canvas), using the projected image as a guide. They’re fast and designed to accommodate scaling, but they’re expensive and aimed at professional artists. The projector is a modern version of a design transfer system used by the old masters.

Finally: trying to do everything in plain sight is silly and unprofessional. Get an accurate design using any technique or device available to you.